Backwards

Backwards from here- Luang Phabang, Laos to Chiang Khong, Thailand.

We have a bit of a view of the Mekong from our window. Just beyond some tall coconut palm trees the mass of muddy brown water is slowly making its way south towards the Mekong Delta in Vietnam where we will probably arrive towards the end of August. Some hills rise up on the opposite bank and from here we can also see some tall trees rising up out of the jungle canopy.

We finally tried durian. I expected my taste buds to be a bit more adventurous, but not so. I was revolted after my first bite. It tastes way worse than it smelled. A bit like really bad mango mixed with castor oil and paraffin. Even mixed in with sticky rice and sweetened coconut milk I could still taste it. Not for me, I am somewhat sorry to admit.

While waiting for dinner at a street side place here a couple of nights ago a young boy of about twelve or thirteen selling some wares approached our table. We were holding hands. At the sight of us holding hands he covered up his eyes and waved a ‘you’re being naughty’ finger in the air. He then harassed Alexander and questioned him about our relationship while trying to get us to buy some items as well. He was obviously a young flamer in the making and seemed to enjoy teasing the two of us about being a couple. We told him that we were not interested in buying anything and he then sat down on a plant pot and said “Then I will sit down and not go!” after a while he left but then returned again and told me to go to the “T-O-I-I-E-T,” so that Alexander can buy me a gift (the second ‘I’ was his). At some point he sat down again and then told us that his name was Miss Tyra. I was impressed. After a while he left us to go home. It was a pity his wares were so dull, otherwise I surely would have supported this young and upcoming little queen.

We took the slow boat from Huai Xai where we crossed from Thailand here. It took us two days, we spent one night in the tiny town of Pakbeng on the way. We passed loads of water buffalo, locals fishing, tiny-tiny villages, hillside farms, bamboo forests and jungle. It was a great experience albeit not the most comfortable and I would consider doing it again.

Unfortunately there will always be some grim tourists to sour a trip. Like the loud older man from somewhere in the Southern Hemisphere, pearl earring through that little bit inside the ear. Who thought everybody was interested in his stories. Who threw his cigarette buts into the river while laughing at a girl for being hesitant to throw a lychee skin into the river, “It’s fucking biodegradable.” Not so your cigarette buts, asshole. Or the ignorant kid from a former great kingdom who asked, “Does Laos have a king?” When someone answered said he did not think so the guy asked, “Then who is this bloke on all their money?” Read a book! Do at least the littlest bit of research before you trample all over your destination!

On our last night in Thailand we stayed at Bamboo Guesthouse in Chiang Khong, on the bank of the Mekong. The owner, with a case of OCD, told us that unlike other places all over the country he does not play Bob Marley or The Eagles at his restaurant to attract tourists. He plays his personal collection of soothing jazz and world music, he shares his music with his guests. We weren’t the only ones attracted to his music. Two enormous geckos, about 25-30cm long, were also hanging out in the restaurant! The next morning we enjoyed peanut butter on whole wheat bread his sweet little wife with the cropped hair had baked that morning.